A Tale Of Two Cities

I’ve lived in Paris for just shy of two years now, which is an achievement I can tell you though not one I will ever be given a medal for. But it could have all been so different. Paris wasn’t my only choice for university, oh no. I could have gone to London to complete my formal education. Imagine that. Me as a moody Londoner, getting on the Tube and huffing at people while reading Metro. Recently I was in the old Smoke and I couldn’t help but compare the two cities.

Let us start by comparing the public transport networks. While the Tube predates the Metro by around 40 years that doesn’t mean it is any more sensible. Living in Paris for such a long time means that I am no stranger to using a topological map in order to navigate myself around a city and I thought I knew the London Underground relatively well turns out I don’t. Or at least that it’s a lot more mental than the French version (who would have thought it?) Where is the sense in having three different train lines running from the same platform? Even the catastrophe that is Merseyrail doesn’t do that. Luckily I managed to bump in some charming locals who managed to help me with my route. In Paris you can barely move sometimes for employees of the ever powerful RATP who can help guide you to your destination. Recently in a fit of effectiveness they even stationed people all along the RER C which had been temporarily closed for repairs.

London seems busier than Paris too. If we compare the Champs-Elysees and Oxford Street I can try to quantify this. Both are major shopping streets in two major capital cities. Oxford Street is much nicer and has a Topshop (a major plus in my mind). Whereas the Champs has fake beggars trying to scam you out of your hard earned cash as you wait in the queue to be allowed in Louis Vuitton just so you can go and stare at pretty things. However you can actually amble up the Champs-Elysees with some ease while gazing at the wondrous Arc De Triomphe, such pleasures cannot be enjoyed on Oxford Street as you get battered by permatanned girls clutching at their River Island bags.

Don’t get me wrong I enjoy both cities immensely. I just happen to feel that Paris has a better quality of life. Alright, we might live in much smaller apartments and be surrounded by the French all of the time but everyone takes their time with things. Drinking wine isn’t just something you do on a Friday night after a long week at work; it is basically a human right on the continent. London is definitely more eclectic and diverse than Paris but I wouldn’t switch them for the world. 

Paris Uncovered: Part Two

Whilst sat in my hot and stuffy apartment (because I’ve got the windows closed to keep out the mosquitoes) I started to think of other places I’d quite like to be, preferably places with very good air-con. Due to my new job I’ve been dashing around all over Paris which has given me inspiration to do my second instalment of my top places to go and visit when in Paris. This time I’m tackling the ever popular triumvirate of the 4^th, 5^th and 6^th arrondissements.

4^th Arrondissement

With it being so unbearable hot in this fine city I have resorted to drastic measures. Yes, I went there. I’ve decided to recommend you the best ice cream parlour in Paris. Since 1954on Rue Saint-Louis en l’Ile, the family have been making the most delicious cold substances known to man. I went on my birthday to see what they were made of and I was not disappointed. I opted for the pear sorbet while Mike went for the raspberry. Both were good but the judge (me) decided that the pear was the best. If I could afford to live on Ile Saint Louis I would move there in a heartbeat. Not only does it have magnificent ice cream, it is quaint beyond belief whilst being much quieter than its bigger counterpart the Ile de la Cite.

Not to be missed in the 4^th is Place des Vosges. I spent a week working there as a showroom intern for Paris Fashion Week in February and I can tell you it is one of the nicest parks in Paris, which handily also has free WiFi.

5^th Arrondissement

This is the best arrondissement going. What’s that? Did you just say “Kate, you only think that because you currently reside in that area!”? I might inhabit this particular quartier but that by no means influences my judgement. My new favourite bar happens to be in this arrondissement. Teddys is a name that suggests maybe an American influence but you’d be wrong in that assumption. In fact it is a lot simpler than that. It is just full of teddy bears. And pub carpet. And leopard print walls. What could be better than that? If you make it to Rue Thouin then try the cherry beer called Kasteel Rouge or anything that comes in a funky glass. This establishment is very relaxed and does tabs unlike a lot of typical French joints.

When you stumble back from the clutches of fruit flavoured, hops based liquids then stop at Chez Suzette. I spent a very enjoyable pancake day in here with my dearest sister, Pip. The crepes are incredible and you can get them to go. Also Rue de la Harpe happens to be around the corner from my flat so I am tempted by their classic French treats more often than I should admit.

6^th Arrondissement

My recommendation for this area has had rave reviews, notably my father who termed it sleazy. Bar Dix is a ULIP institution. Well we haven’t quite got “les mates rates” yet but not through lack of trying. What more could you want from a sangria bar than Chic on the jukebox and quirky art students in the corner?! What’s more there is a downstairs which has precarious steps and an enormous mirror that lets you contemplate your drunkenness without having to brave the cramped toiler.

Hopefully these little gems can help you pass the summer well or to plan your next trip. Speaking of spending the summer well, I’m going to go and check out where I can explore in the next arrondissements. 

La Rive Gauche

I moved into a new flat quite recently. I’ve moved around Paris quite a lot since I have lived here. From all the way in the 15^th where I had views of the Eiffel Tower every morning on my walk to uni to the delightful Ice Palace which was just up the road from Gare Saint Lazare and provided plenty of tales from the Mafia Landlady. However now I have really gone up in the world (not quite 7 floors up though, I’m done with that). We have moved to the wondrous 5^th arrondissement. With views of Notre Dame and the best bookshop in Paris just down the road, how could one complain?

On my way to the post office today I was walking down Boulevard Saint Germain and I began to ponder on my favourite part of Paris. I decided that I couldn’t really narrow it down so I’ve settle on having the entire Left Bank as my number one Parisian spot. For those who don’t know the part of Paris that is south of the Seine is known colloquially as the Left Bank or La Rive Gauche because when you are on a boat on the Seine it is on your left side. Neat huh?

You wouldn’t think that two halves of one city could feel so different. The Right Bank is a little too busy and mildly sleazy for me. It may have an eclectic nightlife and vibrant personality but I find it much easier to wander through the streets of the Left Bank where I can pop my head in obscure art galleries and buy a cheeky crepe from the vendor around the corner from my flat. The LB is historically more intellectual and feels like the Paris people have written about for centuries. The wide boulevards and the perfectly manicured parks are littered with statues of famous philosophers. Dusty bookshops are ten a penny and it is the perfect place to sit with a book and an espresso outside a café.

There we have it. My reasons for loving my new area. I’m off to go and discuss the meaning of life with some beardy, red wine drinking student. 

The SitCom

Paris is a crazy place. There is so much happening that is mildly entertaining but also quite infuriating. In order to combat the ever growing list of little annoyances that we come across in everyday life, my friends and I have come up with a little saying to help us through the mad, the bad and the downright weird – “That can go in the sitcom”.

Channel Four’s Fresh Meat is all very well but I have no idea why they decided to set it in Manchester and not Paris. From landlords giving you 24 hours to move out of your flat to shouting at Americans for not even trying to speak French in the supermarket, there are untold hilarities in this fair city to translate into a very funny and bittersweet comedy that is sure to set the world alight. It could become the next international phenomenon. But don’t steal it, this is my retirement fund I’m thinking of here.

I live life by the motto “Do it for the anecdote”. (Oh and “Everything or Nothing” but I must stay away from James Bond trivia here.) What’s the point in doing anything if it won’t make a good dinner party story? This may all sound a bit clichéd but seriously you can’t argue with it can you? I must admit I do like talking and if I can make people laugh at the same time by regaling them with tales of calamities I have lived through then even better. Wildly gesticulating whilst describing how you managed to move two people out of their flats in less than twelve hours is my kind of an evening, especially if I have glass of chilled Sauvignon Blanc in my hand at the same time.

So dearest readers, all I ask of you is this – next time you say me ask me the question, “Kate, how has your week been?” and I shall start to (hopefully) delight you with tales of woe and tales of excitement. Until then I shall try and keep the juiciest of details to myself so I can note them down in my ideas for the Sitcom. 

Paris Uncovered: Part One

I’m trying a new idea out. In order to spice up not only my life but the content of my blog I have decided to recommend at least one place in each arrondissement whether it is a bar, a restaurant, or a museum. I shall endeavor to share my favourite places to go whilst avoiding come clichés and telling you some local secrets.

For those who don’t know, Paris is organized in a spiral. The districts or arrondissement start in the very centre with the 1^st and work there way all the way to the 20^th on the outer reaches of the city. It is a wonderfully logical system by French standards but of course it does mimic one of their favourite foodstuffs – les escargots. So let’s start at the beginning…

1^st Arrondissement

Many moons ago when I first moved to Paris I received an unusual message from my Mum to say that I needed to go to a certain address at a designated time in order to collect a little present she had arranged for me. Loving the new spontaneity in my life I was excited about the adventure. My destination was a branch of internationally renowned Pierre Herme’s patisserie empire where a bag of baked goods was waiting for me. From croissants to macarons, you can purchase a plethora of French delicacies. Head to 4 Rue Cambon to sample their culinary delights after a bit of culture in the Louvre.

2^nd Arrondissement

As I was compiling the list of places I want to include in this guide to Paris I couldn’t stop writing down names of places that were in this particular arrondissement so I have thus decided that it must be my favourite of all the areas of the city. Firstly I would love to recommend Sapporo or any of the other Japanese restaurants of Rue Sainte-Anne. You can always tell a place is going to be good when it is absolutely packed full of locals and they all are. When deciding where to go and have some ramen you are spoilt for choice on this bustling little street because everywhere is fit to burst. The food is glorious and the atmosphere is one of satisfied delight, but it is worth a trip to the one supermarket on the street. K-Mart is my number one place to get dumplings and sticky rice for those nights were only some Asian comfort food will do.

If delicious food wasn’t enough for you then Rue Saint-Sauveur in the same arrondissement has some of the best bars in France. Experimental Cocktail Club has to be one of my favourite drinking spots. It is expensive but it is worth it. The décor is partway between a rustic French barn and a Pigalle brothel which adds to the charm of the ever helpful bar staff.

As if that wasn’t enough it is worth a trip to the taxidermy shop on Rue d’Aboukir where they have incredible displays of animals from across the globe.

3^rd Arrondissement

A bit of light relief might be needed after all of that eating and boozing and what better way to unwind than a bit of shopping? Merci has an eclectic mix of items. From clothing to homeware you can get pretty much anything at this store. Browse the stationary whilst being shocked at some of the price tags before settling down in either of the two cafes before making an impulse purchase at the till.

So there we have it, my brief guide to the first three arrondissements in Paris. Now it’s time for me to go and explore the next few! 

Wandering Through The Streets Of The City

I bought a rucksack. Not a very expensive one. Not a very trendy one. But I absolutely love it. This recent purchase has prompted me to start getting out of the flat and exploring a little bit more. Every day for about the last week I’ve tried to go for a walk somewhere new. I’m very pro-walking as opposed to cycling (because I can’t) or taking public transport (because well people). You see a lot more things when you’re walking and you can change your mind as to your destination. Paris has made me go with the flow a lot. Especially recently when life throws up little difficulties.

Taking some time to just have a think and to burn off some nervous energy is very healthy for everyone to do from time to time. Paris is a perfect place to do this as well. It is easy to navigate. Every road has a café where you can stop off for a cheeky aperitif. Plus the scenery is to die for. From wide open spaces in the numerous parks to tranquil calm by the river, you can have it all. Admittedly there are lots of tourists who can be quite slow walkers and tend to get in the way but even they can provide some entertainment.

This afternoon I popped a bottle of water and my book in my rucksack with no knowledge of where I was going to go and just set off out the front door. It’s incredibly liberating to just aimlessly wander particularly now. It is only a matter of months before I start my final year of university. The real world outside of education is certainly starting to seem quite close now so making the most of hardly any commitments is my priority now.

Walking is free exercise too, as my Dad would say. You don’t have to pay to go for a walk. Being out in the fresh air is better than being sat in bed all day. I’ve been trying to soak up some Vitamin D this week as everyone feels better with a tan don’t they? With my sunglasses on and music in my ears I feel invincible. There is no greater feeling than the freedom you get from doing what you want when you want. It doesn’t matter where you go, so just bung some comfy shoes on and a book in your bag and discover somewhere new. 

Les Provinces

Uni has finished. I’m in a new flat (well the one just above my old one but that’s a whole other story). I’m currently looking for jobs. So as the real world beckons me I’ve taken some time out on Paris to try and run away from the city. There are things that are truly wonderful about living in a big city. Decent public transport, varied nightlife and cosmopolitan atmosphere to name just a few advantages. But sometimes it is quite healthy to get away from the over-priced pints and the smoggy pollution.

France has a truly excellent rail network. I can’t fault them in this respect. Reasonably priced and clean trains are what the UK desperately needs. I’ve never even seen a replacement bus here. Recently I went to Giverny to visit Monet’s house and gardens with my Gran and in a shocking display of common-sense there was a shuttle bus from the train station to the visitor centre the likes of which you’d never see in the UK. Shame however that this didn’t happen when I visited Fontainebleau with my Dad this last weekend. We decided that the best way to get from the train station to the boulders we were going to climb would be to take a taxi. Easier said than done. I rang the number the tourist information centre had given me to have the man at the end of the phone hang up on me after saying he had never heard of such a place. After a second time of trying he said there would be a taxi ready in 45 minutes. He must not have like my Parisian accent. Instead we exploited France’s rail network again and go back to the next stop where we walked to our new destination.

But after the distinct hassle/non-hassle in both situations I had a delightful time pootling around nice gardens and peaceful forests. Watching the wildlife and sitting in the sun is just what everyone needs after a few weeks of intense stress. I’d recommend it to everyone to reorder their lives and to get themselves feeling more human.

 Also the bonus of being outside a capital city is that everything is cheaper - 50 cents for a bottle of water! It really does highlight the daylight robbery that goes on in my beloved metropole. Despite the Parisians snooty attitudes to les provinces I’d implore you all to visit the surrounding areas to this delightful city. It is hard to remember sometimes that France isn’t just Paris and harder still to remember that it’s really very easy to take a day trip away from the city.